“People always assume I’m a huge football fan because I refer to it a lot, but frankly, it’s the culture and not the game itself that interests me,” says Martine Rose. In the name of research and sheer curiosity, the British designer attended her first football match this week, a historic victory for England over their German rival, which was played at Wembley Stadium in London.
To call football a national obsession would be an understatement – the fact that football can finally ‘come home’ as they say in the UK, with the England team’s odds on the favorites to win Euro 2021 , seems to be boosting morale across the country right now. Rose’s personal fascination with the sport begins at a particularly significant inflection point in the history of football culture: the moment she collided with dance music. “When the club’s culture fully materialized in 1989, instances of hooliganism in football declined dramatically, they essentially died overnight. Instead of fighting on the terraces, these guys were dancing, taking pills on a Saturday night, ”she explains. “To me, it shows the power of culture, the power of music to change things for the better.”
Somewhere between the football terraces, the dance floor and the notion of business casual, Martine Rose has always found her sweet spot. Those familiar with the British term Wide Boy will recognize the aesthetic instantly, a Rose described as both threatening and alluring, “that guy you kind of like but can’t really tell if he’s going to be nice to you.” His latest collection distills that delves into its most essential parts with a sense of playfulness and ease. Sporty neon stand-collar shirts, oversized polo shirts and archetypal zip-up track jackets are layered over starched striped button-down shirts and chic quilted overcoats. The idea of kink is never too far away for Rose, and this time around, she’s cut her signature leggings into snap-button sweatpants, a delightfully subversive nod to hypermasculine dress codes.
The real highlight of the season is for sure tailoring. The square suit was a recognizable brand of Rose long before it became trendy, and for spring this silhouette is adorned with a strong, tight shoulder that looks especially fresh, rendered in crushed lilac velvet over a jacket. for women shown with matching pants. It’s no surprise that women currently make up around half of Martine Rose’s clientele – she is quick to note that women featured in her very first show. Over the past year, the brand’s taste-tacky square-toe shoes in particular have been a hit with their customers. If the new collection is anything to go by, then its excellent tailoring should score high across the board as well.