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The backdrop for French label Jacquemus’ fall / winter La Montagne collection was quintessentially Instagram-worthy: a bright blue film studio, the Cité du Cinéma, contrasted with models in vivid shades of pink, ecru and sand. But this time the punch was the new model of merchandising that mixed items that were directly available, with pre-order.
The brand now presents “a more adaptive, modern and flexible approach. Our goal is to maintain the momentum between our presentation and product availability, ”the 31-year-old founder and designer wrote in a statement on June 14. “For us, it seems more relevant, more realistic. Our goal is now less seasonal, ”he said. “I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colors, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models,” he said in the show’s notes.
For the first time, the designer plans to translate the energy of the show into immediate sales. The collection became available for purchase directly after the show on the website and on a handful of multi-brand platforms, with more releases to follow. The unique circumstances of last year prompted the change, but the brand did not say whether it would revisit the approach for future collections. This is remarkable, as Jacquemus has tested new approaches to the fashion system throughout its 12 years of existence, ranging from showing off the fashion calendar and away from Paris in his native Provence, to focusing go digital without ever opening stores, creating hot trends like micro handbags – and driving sales to prove it. Jacquemus’ owner told trade publication WWD that he expects his label to generate revenue of up to € 25 million in 2019.
For now, buyers and subscribers can access much of the collection on Jacquemus.com and its retail partners, including Matchesfashion and Selfridges. Some pieces are available immediately and others for pre-order for delivery within one month, including a red headband worn by Adut Akech for € 245 and the new pink Ciuciu bag sported by Kendall Jenner for € 840. In order to get the collection out immediately after the show, Liane Wiggins, Head of Women’s Clothing at Matchesfashion, virtually saw the new styles in February. She noted at midday Thursday a strong performance from the collection, but did not specify any sales statistics. “The creativity of Jacquemus’ sets is so captivating that we always see such a positive halo effect after his shows. It’s great to be able to launch the product when there is still so much excitement around the track.