“The softness puts the wearer in a good mood, and I want the clothes to bring out the personality, without overpowering the individual or crying out the designer label,” said Norbert Stumpfl, Brioni’s design director, of the spring collection, which was made with the most materials.
A tailor by training himself, Stumpfl put forward the know-how of Brioni artisans, who have succeeded in creating a range with a nonchalant and relaxed attitude, for men “who do not spend too much time in front of the mirror. “.
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The designer emphasized the importance of lightness, emphasized by the fabrics, which ranged from blends of linen, cashmere and silk to Sea Island cotton and double-layered knits made from a blend of wool, cashmere and cotton. Escorial silk.
A nubuck trench has been treated to be water resistant. The shapes were looser because the designer wants the Brioni man to be comfortable – and cool too, hence the linen sleeves of a suede jacket, all hand-finished.
A jacket was made from the same nylon used for women’s hosiery, making it extremely light, a quarter the weight of a regular jacket, the designer said.
Stumpfl also created pajama style shirts and pants made from unused samples of silk tie fabrics that are re-dyed, so each piece is unique.
Brioni’s evening outfits were stunning when the designer presented the Veronese Jacket, crafted from hand-woven brocade on a late 19th-century jacquard loom, in a process that takes five months from start to finish. the end. It is clearly a garment for connoisseurs – and with deep pockets – because the floral embroidery is done with gold and silver threads, pushing the sale price up to 50,000 euros.
Another highlight was a carefully hand-dyed ombré silk-faille tuxedo jacket using 50 shades of black and gray with an iridescent effect in a “heavy-duty” technique that Stumpfl said had “no been used since the time of Christian Lacroix and Roberto Capucci. “
Further emphasizing Brioni’s craftsmanship, the brand also introduced hand-hammered silver jewelry.
Launch gallery: Brioni Homme Spring 2022
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